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Pantry Picks

April 24, 2025

Flour

As you stand before the flour shelves, you’re immediately bombarded with a multitude of options. It should be a simple task, but with so many new varieties of flours available, finding the right one can be overwhelming.

Let’s break it down.

Many of us are familiar with wheat, but few know that there are two distinct types. The first is modern wheat, including all-purpose flour, high-gluten flour, and whole wheat flour. Modern wheat has undergone significant changes in processing, preparation, and genetic makeup, resulting in a flour that’s more elastic, light, and fluffy. However, this process also means that modern wheat loses its healthy bran and germ.

In contrast, ancient wheat varieties, such as spelt, Kamut, einkorn, and emmer, have been around for thousands of years and retain their nutritious bran and germ, offering a potentially healthier alternative. Ancient wheat typically has lower gluten levels compared to modern wheat, making it a more appealing option for those with gluten intolerance.

Understanding the differences between modern and ancient wheat is crucial, especially when it comes to baking. The protein content in wheat, particularly gluten, plays a significant role in baking. Gluten, composed of gliadin and glutenin, provides strength, elasticity, and structure to dough, impacting its texture and rise. With this foundation, you’ll be better equipped to choose the right flour for your recipe, ensuring baking success.

Modern Flours

High-gluten flour

High-gluten flour, made from hard red spring or winter wheat, features a remarkable 14 percent protein content derived from gluten. This flour is perfect for crafting artisan breads or challah. However, high-gluten flours often contain fortified vitamins, which can contribute to a higher glycemic index, and the high-gluten content may also make it harder for some people to digest.

All-purpose flour

All-purpose flour is a versatile baking staple with 10–12 percent protein content. It offers a neutral taste and light texture, perfect for cakes, pastries, and sauces. However, many all-purpose flours are fortified, causing a spike in glycemic index, and refined, stripping away fiber and nutrients.

Whole wheat flour

Whole wheat flour is made from entire wheat grains, including the bran, germ, and endosperm. It has a coarser texture, nuttier flavor, and 12–14 percent protein from gluten. It’s great for baking bread, muffins, and cakes, adding texture and flavor. However, whole wheat contains phytates, lectins, and gluten, which are compounds that can cause digestive issues.

Ancient Grains

Whole spelt

Whole spelt is made into a versatile flour (Triticum spelta) that has a protein content of 15–17 percent. It’s rich with fiber and a good source of iron, zinc, and magnesium. With a milder, sweeter flavor and coarser texture, spelt flour produces denser, heavier baked goods. It’s good for baking breads. It contains less gluten than modern wheat flour, making it easier to digest.

White spelt

White spelt flour comes from the ancient spelt grain, with the bran and germ removed. It has 15–17 percent protein, a fine texture, and a mild flavor. Ideal for delicate baked goods. Similar to modern wheat, it’s perfect for challah, bread, and pastries.

Einkorn

Einkorn flour, made from ancient single-grained einkorn wheat, offers unique benefits. This wheat is thousands of years old—our ancestors ate it. With 18 percent protein, einkorn flour is packed with nutrients and has a distinct flavor and texture. While it’s not gluten-free, its weaker gluten structure makes it easier to digest, particularly for those with gluten sensitivity. It produces denser, heavier bread with a tender crumb.

Emmer

Emmer flour, made from ancient emmer wheat, a close relative of einkorn wheat, features a coarser texture and rich nutrient profile, including iron, zinc, and potassium. Its lower gluten content makes it easier to digest. Emmer flour’s distinct nutty flavor and texture make it ideal for baking breads, particularly artisan-style breads, where it produces a slightly denser crumb than einkorn flour.

Kamut

Kamut flour has a protein content of 12–15 percent and contains loads of nutrients. It also has a slightly higher gluten content than other ancient grains, making it great for breads and pizza dough that require structure and rise. Interestingly, despite its higher gluten content, many people with gluten sensitivities find Kamut flour easier to digest. It’s often preferred by those with sensitive stomachs due to its unique nutritional profile and digestibility.

Did you know?

Sourdough bread is a healthier option due to its lower glycemic index and increased nutrient absorption. Fermentation breaks down gluten and creates beneficial compounds. Using whole wheat or ancient grains can make it even healthier.

 

Cranberry-Hazelnut-Chocolate Chunk Spelt Cookies

Yield: 24 cookies

 

Ingredients:

2¾ cup white spelt flour

¾ cup avocado oil

½ cup honey

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon baking powder

Splash vanilla extract

¼ cup dried cranberries

¼ cup chopped hazelnuts

½ cup chocolate chips

1 egg

 

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Combine all ingredients and mix until well incorporated.

Shape into cookie-sized balls.

Bake for 10–12 minutes.

Note: If the batter is too wet, add a little more flour until it reaches the desired consistency.